A Consumer Guide to Gemstones
The Canadian Jewellers Association has produced this booklet to assist you in the selection and special care of coloured gemstones. It is available free, through the Association or its member firms, as a service to customers.
Established in 1918, the Canadian Jewellers Association is comprised of retail jewellers and suppliers in every aspect of the jewellery industry. Firms which apply for membership in the Association must meet minimum requirements which are reviewed by a membership committee and the Board of Directors of the Canadian Jewellers Association, before acceptance is given.
Professional jewellers who have been accepted as members may display the CJA symbol and "A Sign You Can TrustTM" logo in their stores.
The Rainbow of Coloured Gemstones
Today's informed consumer is falling in love again with coloured gemstones. Their beauty and durability makes them a sensible fashion investment. The romance and legend associated with these gemstones gives them a universal fascination and nothing expresses one's individuality so impressively as a unique coloured gemstone.
There are several hundred different varieties of gemstones and a few of the more well-known are highlighted here.
AMETHYST is the most precious member of the quartz family and has long been treasured by kings, queens and religious figures because of its rich royal colour. Indeed, this beautiful purple gem can be traced back to the Minoan period in Greece, twenty-five hundred years before Christ.
It is from the Greek civilization that we find one of the most interesting pieces of lore about amethyst. They believed that wearing the gem, or drinking from goblets cut from the gem would minimize the effects of intoxication! In fact, the word "Amethyst" is from the Greek word meaning literally "not to intoxicate."
Throughout history, the amethyst has been fashioned into faceted gems, polished into domed shaped "cabochons," rounded into beads or left in its beautiful rough crystal form. It holds special significance for those born in the month of February.
Beautifully intense purple stones are available from such sources as Brazil, where they are expertly irradiated and/or heat treated to bring out this very desirable colour. This enhancement is permanent so no special care or cleaning techniques are required. However, particularly rough wear and tear can erode an amethyst's polish over a period of time.'
AQUAMARINE This very slightly greenish-blue gemstone is a close relative of the emerald, for they are both members of the beryl family of gems. Its colour however, is quite unique, and can range from nearly colourless with just a hint of blue to an intense, deep blue.
It is not surprising then, that this birthstone for March derives its name from the Latin meaning "sea water." The azure waters of the Caribbean are a fine comparison for the colour of this gemstone.
The truly intense blue aquamarines of the past are now very scarce indeed, and the price for such stones has escalated considerably. Most gems mined today are noticeably paler in hue, and this has lead researchers to intensify the colour in modern stones. Careful heating results in the lessening of green hues making enhancement permanent.
The legends connect with aquamarine include the idea that it brings courage to those who wear it, and helps to establish happy marriages.
CITRINE The warm hues of a fine citrine are often compared with topaz, and it is no wonder that the two stones are often mistaken for one another. To add to the confusion, both gems are found principally in Brazil, and both are recognized as birthstones for November.
Citrine, however, is a totally distinct gemstone, and is far less costly than the gem it is often mistaken for, topaz. Its name is derived from "citrus," and this hints of its often yellow hue. Occasionally, citrine possesses a very warm and intense orange colour, and in these instances, it is especially treasured and referred to as "Madeira Citrine." Such stones are truly an attractive sherry hue.
Citrine is another member of the quartz family of gemstones, and it is interesting to note that some orange or yellow hues are achieved by heat treating the less attractive colours.
This gemstone will hold up well under normal daily wear, but rough treatment will diminish its luster.
EMERALD is a magnificent green gemstone, the birthstone for May. Considered among the rarest of gems for centuries, emerald is said to help foretell the future and strengthen one's memory. Its colour is considered the most soothing and restful to the eye.
The interior of Columbia has always been the most important source of this precious gem. However, in recent years many new sources have emerged including Zambia and Brazil.
Long ago, it was discovered that soaking a rough emerald in colourless oil subdues the natural flaws or "inclusions" found in most stones, and actually improves their transparency. To date, most emeralds are treated in this manner, right at the source. For this reason, ultrasonic cleaners should never be used in cleaning emeralds. The oil may be forced out, thus emphasizing these inclusions. We recommend gentle cleaning with mild soapy water as the correct way to keep emeralds looking their best.
GARNET, the much underrated birthstone for January, actually occurs in many colours other than the familiar brownish-red. In fact, garnet is available in every colour except blue, and offers an excellent variety of choice and price range, and is one of the gems which until now has not needed enhancement to improve its already beautiful colours.
The beautiful and vibrant rhodolite garnet from sources such as Sri Lanka, is a violet-red. The rare Tsavorite garnet from Tsavo National Park in Tanzania, is an intense green. The bright gold and burnished yellow/brown of the Hessonite garnet can be found right here in Canada. It is consequently quite possible to find the beautiful red colour of a ruby, or even the green hue of an emerald, all in a lovely garnet.
Garnet was once believed to give its wearer guidance in the night, allowing to see where others could not. In one era, weapons were actually carved from the gem, in the belief that it would draw blood more effectively. Throughout history, however, garnet has been known as the gem of faith, constancy, and truth.
This gem is remarkably durable, does not require special care in wear and cleaning, and makes an excellent gemstone for men's jewellery.
JADE, the "Jewel of Heaven," has been treasured for thousands of years for its beauty and durability. In fact, it is widely believed that jade was the "first" gemstone, as we understand the term today. In ancient China, jade was first used for weapons, because of its toughness, and later, it became popular for adornment as civilization grew to appreciate its beauty.
There are actually two types of jade: Nephrite Jade and Jadeite Jade. Nephrite Jade is deep green in colour but occasionally comes in black. A most important source of Nephrite Jade is Canada, in British Columbia.
Jadeite Jade occurs in a variety of colours, including white, lavender, and especially green.
Green jade is what is usually meant by the term "Oriental Jade," and its exact shade of green can vary considerable. The more intense the hue of green and the more uniform it is across the stone, the more valuable jade is.
To obtain the most desirable colours, Jadeite is sometimes dyed to transform otherwise undesirable shades into desirable ones. For this reason, it is not a good idea to put the gem into an ultrasonic cleaner, nor expose it to household chemicals unless you've checked on the nature of its colour. Your professional jeweller can safely clean jade, or advise you accordingly.
OPAL, a gemstone from Australia, is an exceptional one. The beauty of the opal is derived from flashes and patterns of different colours against a white or greyish background, a phenomenon called "play of colour" by gemologists. It is the intensity and variety of these different colours which make opals more desirable, valuable and unique, as opals possess their lovely colour combinations from nature without enhancement.
Opals contain approximately 10% water in their molecular structure, which plays a part in their magnificent display of colours. Unfortunately, it also affects their durability and contributes to their brittleness. Opals need not be stored in water or oil as commonly believed. However, some care should be taken when wearing opals to avoid sharp blows which could break them. Similarly, consumers should look for protective settings for their gems.
Opals may be kept in your jewelry box along with your other jewelry, provided you cushion them somewhat from being knocked or scratched.
This birthstone for October was falsely portrayed in an 18th century novel as bringing its wearer bad luck. Curiously, this foolish superstition has continued to the present day, although it has been a treasured gem since early Roman times, and was a favourite of Queen Victoria in the 19th century.
PERIDOT, the birthstone for August, has a delicate spring-time green colour which is unique in the gem world, and its chemistry ensures that this gemstone only occurs in this particular hue, without the current enhancement techniques used by man to beautify gemstones.
Originally mined only on an obscure island off the coast of Egypt, peridot can also be found in Arizona, on a small Indian reservation. This is most fortunate because in the early days, the mining was extremely dangerous as the island was snake infested. To make matters worse, peridot was generally unearthed at night only when its colour made it easily seen against the surrounding rock material. Undoubtedly, this contributed to its rarity and corresponding expense!
Considered a powerful amulet against evil, the gem itself is vulnerable to hard blows, and excessive scratching. Peridot should thus be given a little extra care although it can be worn every day.
RUBY has been known for centuries as the "King of Gems." This precious gemstone is the birthstone for July, and has always been one of the most sought after gems. Legend has it that a ruby has the power to end a lover's dispute and rekindle desire. Ancient medics associated its red colour with blood and relied heavily on its mystical healing properties.
We know that the ruby is the rarest of the Corundum family of gemstones of which sapphire is also a member, its intense red hue is totally unique in the gem world, and the rubies of Burma have long been considered among the finest available. Rubies from other sources, such as Thailand and East Africa, usually contain iron which gives a purplish tone, and is less appealing that the pure "pigeon blood" red of Burmese stones.
Owing to the limited availability of the finest Burmese stones, most rubies are put through a complete heating process to enhance their colour. A small fraction of these enhanced stones actually approach the beauty of the finest Burmese rubies!
These heating techniques are closely guarded family secrets, and can result in more desirable red hues, although only a small percentage of stones are successfully enhanced. Nevertheless, the improved colour of these rubies is quite permanent, and no special care is required to maintain their brilliance.
SAPPHIRE Few people realize that this gemstone, the birthstone for those born in September, is available in every colour imaginable, except red. Although the intense velvety blue hue of Sri Lanka and Kashmir sapphires have been the most sought after through the ages, beautiful yellows, pinks, purples, and other are also available today. These "fancy" colours are at present found in sources such as Australia and especially East Africa.
The legends associated with the sapphire are numerous. The ancient Persians, for example, believed that the earth rested on a giant sapphire. Other early cultures wore the stone as protection against poisoning. All through the ages, the sapphire has symbolized truth, sincerity and constancy.
Many of these people actually reburied stones of poorer colour, believing that being "unripe," they would improve with time back in the ground. As time went on, more scientific minds discovered that when paler tones and stones of less attractive hue were "baked" or heated, colour could be improved. As with rubies, this practice has continued right up to the present in many of the countries where sapphires are mined. Those involved in the treatment, consider the complex process to be simply the completion of what Mother Nature started.
No special care is required to maintain the beauty of sapphires. Indeed, the durability of the gem, even those heat-treaded, is excellent. Regular jewellery cleaning methods are quite suitable.
TOPAZ The warm hues of a fine topaz are what most people picture when they think of the precious birthstone for November.
Topaz comes in other colours, the most notable being icy blue.
Brazil is a source for most topaz, including the beautiful "imperial" topaz, which is a slightly pinkish orange colour, reminiscent of a lotus blossom, or sherry. Blue topaz has become increasingly popular in recent years, as a wonderful alternative to aquamarine. This icy blue coloured topaz is a much more brilliant stone, and because it is more prevalent in nature, it is far more affordable than aquamarine. This intense blue gem is enhanced at the source, with a process that is completely harmless, and it creates a beautiful hue which is permanent under normal wear and tear.
Conventional jewellery cleaners are safe to use on all colours of topaz, so it's quite convenient to keep your topaz jewellery looking its best. As with all jewellery, it is best to let your professional jeweller clean and check your pieces on a regular basis.
GEMSTONE AND FASHION COLOURS
Nature has conveniently provided gemstones to suite every skin tone and wardrobe. Listed below are four general colour groupings of gemstones to complement your complexion:
Golden blonde hair, blue-green eyes and peachy skin tones are best complemented by gems reminiscent of bright spring flowers. These include citrine, yellow sapphires, turquoise, pale emeralds, tsavorite (green garnet), and light amethyst.
For those who suit warmer tones of deep burnt orange and the yellows of autumn leaves, the corresponding gems to choose include topaz, amber, tiger eye, citrine, green tourmaline and most garnets.
Cool and soft colours with blue undertones are reminiscent of blue skies and pink sunsets. Characteristic gems include red tourmaline, rhodolite garnets, rubies, emeralds, cool green jade and sapphires.
Brown hair with red highlights, blue/green eyes and pink tone suit cool colours of snow and ice. Gemstones ideal for this grouping include blue topaz, black onyx, blue sapphires, lapis, aquamarine, ruby, icy pink tourmaline and deep amethyst.
SEEK PROFESSIONAL GUIDANCE
To see a selection of quality coloured gemstones, visit a knowledgeable, ethical jeweller who can guide you to a wise purchase. A Canadian Jewellers Association member is an excellent choice. You will find a professional jeweller who will be pleased to show you a variety of coloured gemstones to suit your complexion, wardrobe and budget.
BUYING JEWELLERY WISELY
Whether it is for yourself or a gift to a loved one, buying jewellery represents a happy occasion. Enjoy the experience and follow these tips, to help you buy wisely.
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