What You Should Know About Cultured Pearls

Today, cultured pearls are more popular than ever. For this reason, your professional jeweller and the Canadian Jewellers Association have produced this brochure to help you know more about pearls and make an informed purchase. After you have read this brochure, speak to your CJA member jeweller who will be pleased to answer any further questions you may have.

Pearls Set the Mood

The soft lustre and shifting subtle colours of pearls give them a unique quality. They can be slinky and sexy, modest and demure, lavish and elegant, or cool and sophisticated.

Pearls are not radiant, but wearing them imparts radiance. They wrap neck, shoulders and face in a soft halo, making complexions come alive.

How Pearls are Formed

Pearls owe their beauty to the creative force of nature and the pearl oyster. When a foreign substance (such as a grain of sand) enters the creature's shell, the oyster's body takes defensive action to ease the irritation. It begins to secrete a smooth, hard substance called nacre around the irritant. Layer upon layer of nacre builds up around the irritant to form – after several years – a lovely, natural pearl.

Cultured pearls are formed by pearl oysters in much the same way as natural pearls. The only difference is that human hands implant the irritant in the oyster, then step aside to let nature crate its miracle.

The Question of Quality

No two pearls are exactly alike. They are found in a range of qualities and are judged by their lustre, surface appearance, size, shape, colour and nacre thickness.

Lustre – This is a mirrorlike surface reflection seen on a pearl. It is lustre which makes pearls uniquely beautiful in the gem world.

Surface Appearance – The smoother the surface and the fewer the blemishes present, the more valuable the pearl.

Size – Other factors being equal, the larger the pearl, the more value it has.

Shape – Generally speaking, the more symmetrical the pearl, the more valuable it is.

Colour – Colour is the combination of body colour and overtone. Body colour is the predominant colour of the pearl. The most commonly seen body colours are white, cream, rose and pale yellow. Overtone is a tone of another colour superimposed on the body colour of some pearls, and can be likened to blush in makeup. Rarely, one can also find orient on pearls. This is the appearance of iridescent colours providing a rainbow effect.

Nacre Thickness – An important factor in the durability of the cultured pearl is the thickness of the nacre around the original irritant. The longer the pearl remains in the oyster the more nacre is secreted and hence the more lustre the pearl has.

Types of Pearls

Akoya are the most familiar type of cultured pearls and they are grown in Japan. Generally round in shape, these saltwater cultured pearls have a classic elegance popular with every generation, especially new brides.

Freshwater cultured pearls are irregular in shape and are available in a variety of colours. They are especially in vogue today, because they are dramatic, yet affordable fashion item that can be worn with any outfit for any occasion. Freshwater cultured pearls come from pearl oysters that live in freshwater lakes and streams, particularly in China and Japan. Biwa is the name given to freshwater pearls grown only in Japan's Lake Biwa.

Mabe refers to a half round pearl (with a flat back) which has grown against the inside shell of any oyster. It is usually mounted in closed back settings. Mabes are especially popular in earrings, pendants and rings.

South Sea cultured pearls are from the saltwaters of the South Pacific. The pearl-producing oysters which inhabit these waters are much larger than those found around Japan and the waters are warmer as well. Thus, larger, more impressive pearls are formed. South Sea pearls are understandably the most prized of the cultured pearl types.

Natural or "Oriental" pearls are formed by the accidental natural process described earlier. Such pearls are occasionally found in the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean.

Pearl Fashion

Pearls are a timeless favourite and are versatile enough to fit in with any outfit from sportswear to formal dress. An uniform or graduated strand of round pearls is the classic pearl look. They, or freshwater pearls, may also be strung with coloured gemstones or beads. Long single strands of whit or cream pearls may be twisted with pearls that have been treaded to achieve a variety of colours such as peach, lavender, pink, black or grey.

Your pearl wardrobe might include pendants, bracelets, rings, earrings, stick pins and brooches incorporating round, irregular shaped, freshwater or saltwater cultured pearls to produce exciting, unique pieces of jewellery.

Caring for your Pearls

Cultured pearls are precious jewels that should be treated gently. Always store them separately from other jewellery, wrapped in cloth or tissue or placed in a little pouch.

To protect their lustre, never let your pearls come in contact with cosmetics, hairsprays and perfumes. It's best to put your pearls on last. After each wearing, they should be wiped with a soft cloth to remove dirt and perspiration.

Pearls may be washed in mild soap and water, then rinsed and allowed to air dry naturally. Most jewellery cleaning solutions are not suitable for pearls, so be cautious. It is a good idea to bring your pearls to your professional jeweller for restringing about every year or so. He or she will put a knot between each pearl to guard against their loss in the unlikely event that the string should break. This will also prevent the pearls from rubbing against each other.

To see a complete selection of pearl jewellery, visit a jewellery store that is a member of the Canadian Jewellers Association. There you an learn more about the unique beauty of pearls as precious jewels.